Unless you are a birder, the “Birds of Paradise” (BoP) don’t ring a bell, but many of you will recognize them – do you? Let me know in the comments below!
This post was happily written by a human without the help of AI. Enjoy.
Welcome to Raja Ampat – the Last Paradise
After visiting the mangrove forest on Nusa Lembongan in the morning and the Bali dive store in the afternoon, we settled for a few hours of sleep at a hotel right next to the airport. A few hours later we got up to go to the airport yet again. Note to myself:
Don’t be too close to the airport to be picked up by a taxi – we had to walk.
Note two:
Never ever book flights again between 1 and 6am.
The flight took about four hours and changed one time zone. A taxi brought us to the harbour at 6:30am, where roughly 30 travellers gathered waiting for the ferry counter to open. The number increased by every fifteen minutes. It was a feast for mosquitoes and so I looked for some activity to bridge the time.
Therefore, I rambled through the tiny harbour. I found a rusty ship in a deplorable state, at a sloping position and more rust than any other colour. Fingers crossed – this is not our ship. Additionally, I walked upon the first little store to open, which by chance served instant coffee and some snacks – what a buffet after such an arduous journey!
Though this ordeal was just the beginning and continued with only one of two counters opening at 08:15 due to a broken connector. Therefore, the queue worked its way even slower and shortly before the departure of our ferry, we finally had all necessary tickets, stamps, signatures, receipts and monopoly money.
At least the ferry ride was smooth, although there are also some horror stories online…
Project: Birds of Paradise alias BoP
Perhaps you might have come across the Birds of Paradise in a Netflix mini-series such as Dancing Birds (highly recommended!) or on National Geographic documentaries and so did I. Being fascinated by their colourful appearance and their dazzling courtship displays, which look like dance moves; I wanted to witness them with my own eyes. Staying at the Hamueco Dive Resort close to Waisai, we organized a BoP birding tour with our accommodation.
Organizing the BoP-Tour
Our homestay usually organizes Bird or Paradise tours with the guides from the government at two nearby observation places behind the airport of Waisai. You find them even on google maps but are not allowed to visit them without a guide.
By researching the Birds of Paradise on the useful website StayRajaAmpat, I came across the man – the legend – Benny.
He’s a full-time birder and expert guide for birds in West Papua. Back when I organised this tour in December, he was just about to embark on an excursion to the island of Batanta for new species. Hence, I wanted to meet him in person. Benny also knew different places where he observed various birds of West Papua including the BoP. Furthermore, his knowledge about the wildlife is second to none.
Silke, another Swiss traveller staying at the same homestay, decided to join us on this trip, even if she had never heard of these birds before.
Red Bird of Paradise
We got up at 4:23 am and left seven minutes later. After a short car drive, we met Benny and his brother, who didn’t look like his brother at all. The hike started with three steep inclines on a dirt road for ATVs. After about 90 minutes, at an inconspicuous spot, we turned sharply left and followed a dirt trail onto a small hill. This path had some makeshift handrails at steeper sections, but it was slippery, nonetheless.
A little exhausted we arrived at the first viewing place in the dark. Long story short, we heard the Red Bird of Paradise, but it didn’t show up. Benny was very sorry, but this is just how real wildlife viewing is: Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. The soundscape in the jungle was amazing anyway and there was still a chance to spot another BoP.
Wilson’s Bird of Paradise
Descending from the small hill, we continued another 20 minutes into the forest. Again, we turned sharply off the trail and followed to a makeshift hide made from plastic foil. We took shelter under it and watched through the holes at a small patch of forest, where the floor was fully cleared of leaves.
It took only a few minutes before the Wilson’s bird of Paradise appeared. The male cleans the forest floor and prepares his feathers. He’s a bit of a perfectionist in that matter. As soon as a female arrived, he jumped at a particular stick and presented his magnificent colours in an astounding way. It was mesmerizing for a brief moment and then it was over. I recommend watching my video to fully understand the beauty of it.
Returning from the early birding tour at about 10am, I didn’t think I would do another birding trip.
Birds of Paradise – Take Two
Next thing you know, I’m again out and about at 5am hiking through the forest to see the red bird of paradise at a different spot. It was a shorter hike, better maintained and the hide was fully built for about a dozen people – but luckily: I had it all to myself – aaand a few spiders and tons of mosquitoes.
The red bird of paradise is a magnificent creature with beautiful colours. What sets him apart is his dazzling courtship display, which the male trains every day at the same tree for generations. It is a pleasure to watch and hard to fathom what nature comes up with.
What’s next?
A black dot appeared at the horizon, which transformed into a short line. The line elongated a bit and soon it was distinguishable as a small boat. The long narrow boat with a person was clearly visible now. The steersman docked at the pier and we boarded the little vessel to start our next leg of our journey. Stay tuned for what’s to come – this is only the beginning.
Thanks for reading and hear you soon.
Tom
Asia 2025
Asia 2025
Chapter 2: Project Diving Bali
Chapter 4: Diving in Raja Ampat
Chapter 6: Wild Orangutans in Sumatra: A Jungle Trek to Remember
Chapter 7: Finding Tarsiers in Bohol
Chapter 8: Diving with Thresher Sharks in Malapascua
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