Exploring Raja Ampat, Indonesia 4

Raja Ampat –the four kings, which refers to the four main islands, is a stunning place. Best known for its mind-boggling number of fish species, this place is also commonly called the ‘last paradise’. Have you ever heard of the Cuscus?

Asia 2025

Chapter 1: Intro

Chapter 2: Project Diving

Chapter 3: Birds of Paradise

Chapter 4: Diving in Raja Ampat

Chapter 5: Bromo Volcano

Chapter 6: Orangutans in Sumatra

Chapter 7: Tarsiers in Bohol

Advanced Open Water Course in Raja Ampat

After completing my Open Water Course in Nusa Lembongan, I was eager to take the next step and enroll in the Advanced Open Water Course. This allowed me to refine my diving skills and gain certification to dive as deep as 40 meters—though so far, I haven’t gone beyond 30 meters. One of the great things about this course is that it typically only takes two days.

Our next stop on this journey was the breathtaking Raja Ampat in West Papua. We stayed at the Tau Yado homestay near Gam, about 40 minutes from Waisai—a truly stunning location surrounded by pristine nature and incredible marine life.

Tarzan Diving Center

To be honest, I wasn’t very impressed with the dive center where I did my Advanced Open Water Course. Communication beforehand was lacking—emails went unanswered—and the overall organization felt chaotic. The German owner seemed more focused on personal convenience than on providing the best experience for divers. For example, they scheduled dives at the underwhelming house reef when world-class sites like Blue Magic were just a stone’s throw away.

If I were to return to Raja Ampat, I’d likely choose a different dive center—perhaps on Kri or even farther away, like Fam.

I took the course alongside Nile, a Dutch anthropology professor. On the first day, we were guided by Ute, an excellent instructor and experienced diver who introduced us to our chosen specializations: Peak Performance Buoyancy, Fish ID, and Drift Diving. Her teaching was clear, and the dives were enjoyable.

The second day, however, was a different story. The owner took over, and I felt completely overlooked. At one point, I got caught in a strong current and struggled to get back, only to be told afterward that I should have set my reef hook—something she never explained beforehand. I was relieved that I only had to dive with her for one day.

Compared to my experience with Tamarind Divers in Nusa Lembongan, Tarzan Diving felt unprofessional and disorganized. That said, once I started diving with the local guides, everything became much more enjoyable.

Diving in Raja Ampat

Raja Ampat is truly a spectacular place to dive. The sheer variety of fish species, nudibranchs, and vibrant corals was absolutely mesmerizing—it felt like jumping into a massive aquarium.

Even though I can’t name half of the fish we encountered, here are some photos of my favourite sightings. If you recognize any more in my video, feel free to drop their names in the comments along with the timecodes!

What is a Cuscus?

In the evenings, we enjoyed dinner at our homestay with our neighbors—Bert from the Netherlands and the French couple, Laura and Cyril. On our first night, we were also joined by another Dutch couple, Jeroen and Angelique, who told us about a curious-looking animal called the cuscus. I had read about it while preparing for this trip, but hearing their firsthand account made me eager to see one myself.

The cuscus looks like a cross between a monkey and a Dalmatian, with a long, rat-like tail. Despite its unusual appearance, it’s actually a type of possum. Its slow, deliberate movements make it even more peculiar—it climbs sluggishly through the treetops, feasting on fruits and nuts, and is mostly nocturnal, sleeping through the day. Apparently, it’s much easier to spot on Gam, where they often linger in trees near the homestays. Jeroen mentioned that locals had even helped him find one since they usually know where to look.

Obviously, I wanted to see and photograph one. So, armed with headlamps, we set out along the coast, scanning the trees and asking locals for any leads. Despite our efforts, we had no luck the first couple of nights. Finally, on the third evening, we spotted a cuscus high up in the treetops. It was quite far away, but at least we had seen one! Satisfied, I didn’t actively search for them in the following days.

Local Knowledge

Then, on our last night in Raja Ampat, just as I was about to brush my teeth and head to bed, a local came to our hut. They had spotted another cuscus and wanted to show us. For a brief moment, I hesitated—was it worth heading out so late? But then I remembered my mate Claudio’s motto: “Never be lazy!”

Following the local, we arrived at a nearby tree where Yondri was skillfully keeping a cuscus entertained, mimicking screeching sounds to hold its attention. It was so close!

I quickly grabbed my phone and filmed a few seconds before dashing back to get my camera. By the time I returned, the cuscus had climbed a little higher. Still, Yondri did everything he could to keep it engaged—calling out and gently shaking the tree. His efforts paid off! The cuscus turned to look at us, giving me the perfect opportunity to capture this fascinating and adorable creature on video.

What’s next after Raja Ampat?

If I were to return to Raja Ampat, I’d likely choose a different dive center—perhaps on Kri or even farther away, like Fam. While I had mixed experience with Tarzan Diving, my time in this breathtaking place was unforgettable, thanks to the stunning underwater world and the wonderful people at our homestay.

A huge thanks to Laura, Cyril, Bert, Jeroen, and Nile—you truly made this trip special! It was a pleasure meeting you all.

For now, it was time to head back and let me tell you, the next few days were a bit of a mess. More on that, in the next post.

Thanks for reading, and until next time!

Tom